Let’s talk about a word we hear all the time these days: sustainable. It’s often thrown around by brands, influencers, and organisations. Well-meaning, yes, but sometimes lacking real substance.
I’m writing from the foothills of the Himalayas, where wool has been a trusted companion through the seasons, a fabric that is durable, worn by almost everybody (who's experienced winters), and has stood the test of time from a style longevity perspective. Yet here I am, unexpectedly captivated by a new story of sustainability: a textile spun from the trespasser-turned-hero, the Calotropis plant.
Calotropis, or milkweed, beloved in our country as Ganesha’s sacred flower, is often dismissed as a mere weed. But have you seen how it thrives? The plant is a common weed that grows even on the beach, survives on salty lands, requires no irrigation or fertilizers for growth, and thrives in the harshest weather conditions. Ten points on adaptability.
A cruelty-free and plant-based wool alternative, meticulously crafted without a single drop of chemical, Calotropis yarn is spun with the utmost care, derived from the carefully extracted calotropis stem and pod fibers, and is delicately blended with 70% rain-fed cotton. The inherent hollowness of the soft calotropis fiber ingeniously forms air pockets within the fabric, granting it a delightful lightweight feel and a touch of luxury, while bestowing it with remarkable thermal-regulating properties. Pods and stems are collected from the wild plants by hand by the local women covering a 30km radius around the ginning unit in Tamil Nadu. The hotter the weather, the greater the yields.
Zoom in on those fibers: the pod fiber is incredibly fine, 10 microns in diameter, soft, light, thermal, antimicrobial, and hollow like a micro-balloon. It drifts, carrying seeds far and wide. The stem fiber, a sturdier 20 microns, brings strength, durability, abrasion resistance, thermal stability, and yes, antimicrobial benefits too.
The development of Calotropis fiber begins when both these fibers (pod and stem) are combed and twisted with rain-fed organic cotton (more info on that coming right away) to represent the best characteristics of wool and cotton. It gives warmth like wool, but at the same time, it is not water-repellent. It has a higher wick count than cotton (the ability to wick out the moisture from the body); therefore, using this fiber in apparel helps regulate body heat and works as an outer skin.
Rain Fed Cotton
Cotton often comes at a cost to the soil, the farmer, and the environment. Rain-fed cotton is organic, as the farmers do not use any pesticides or synthetic fertilizers. It is a purely rain-fed crop that has high tolerance for both disease and pests and requires minimal investment. It is resilient and resurgent in the face of difficult land conditions. It forms a strong, coarse, stretchable fiber. The short-staple length translates to fewer twists per inch of yarn, so, over time, its use has diminished significantly in mainstream markets, replaced by chemically produced cotton.
In the messy world of cotton cultivation, Whakato stands with its ethics, transparency, and commitment to bring these topics up.
Rain-fed cotton farming is crucial because it:
- builds and rebuilds soil health and organic matter to support healthy plant growth
- mitigates carbon emissions and stores atmospheric carbon in the soil
- eliminates the use of chemical inputs and GMOs (Genetically Modified Organisms)
- increases biodiversity and ecosystem resilience
- increases water percolation, retention, and reduces runoff and soil erosion
Zero waste
What distinguishes Calotropis fiber from traditional textiles lies in its groundbreaking zero-waste concept. In sharp contrast to conventional fabric production methods, which yield harmful effluents and sludge as byproducts, the manufacturing process of Calotropis fiber is meticulously designed to be waste-free. Every drop of residue generated during fiber extraction and natural dyeing is ingeniously repurposed into a valuable agricultural product: a fermented Calotropis extract that works wonders for farmers by safeguarding their plants from pests and diseases while enhancing plants' immunity.
By eliminating the need for toxic pesticides and fungicides, this byproduct extract helps to transition to organic farming practices, ensuring healthier crops and a safer environment. Not only does it protect the plants, but it also helps farmers save money while revitalizing their land with essential nutrients. It paves the way for sustainable and thriving agriculture, benefiting both farmers and the ecosystem.
What's more interesting is that this extract does not kill insects. It only repels them. Win-win, right?
Care Instructions
Now care may seem simplistic, but it can be profoundly impactful once you get past all the excuses as to why it's too hard, and believe me, I've heard and made them, too.
To maintain the longevity of naturally dyed Calotropis fabrics sustainably, please follow the instructions below:
- To achieve the best result, wash your clothes by hand. For machine washing, use a gentle cycle at room temperature.
- Wash colors separately, particularly for the first wash.
- Wash clothes inside out.
- Use a pH-neutral detergent, Natural soap, or any delicate wash soap. This will ensure the longevity of the color of the garment.
- Do not bleach.
- Please avoid tumble dry. If unavoidable, tumble dries at low temperatures.
- Natural colors are sensitive to light. Dry in the shade.
- Clothes can be pressed with a warm iron.
- Avoid contact with lemon or citrus fruits while wearing naturally dyed garments. Citric juice will act as a natural bleach on the garments.
Not to pull your attention in yet another direction (I know there’s a lot competing for it), but if you’re still with me and want to go deeper, you can learn more about rain-fed cotton here
Shop Calotropis scarves here
Until then, what questions do you have for me? As always, please send your unfiltered thoughts to info@whakato.com
himanshi x
